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Knock Three Times
Let’s hope the third time’s the charm for the green-awninged corner of 5500 Brentwood Stair Rd., a tick south of I-30 and halfway between Oakland and I-820. Chow, Baby adored Colette’s Café, which occupied the space until a rent increase drove out talented chef-owner Teresa Lister. Deliciously heartwarming Abby’s Soul Food came and went in the blink of an eye. Now Poppa’s Kitchen is at bat, and Chow, Baby hopes to see a home run this time.
Poppa’s daily-changing menu offers three entrées, half a dozen veggies, and a few desserts (entrée plus three veggies, $7.25). One Tuesday, Chow, Baby sampled them all: meltingly tender beef tips over rice; chicken and dumplings with so much gravy it was more like a stew, perfect for dunking warm corn muffins into; and juicy fall-off-the-bone baked chicken. The veggies were homecooking at its best (as opposed to the way Chow, Baby does it): ham-studded green beans, skin-on mashed potatoes, killer-sweet glazed carrots, long-stewed okra and tomatoes. Please, everybody go, so this one will stay in business, and not just because—OK, mainly because—Chow, Baby’s house is within Poppa’s delivery zone.
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