Oversized by not overly battered, Chuck Wagon’s CFS lets the steak take center stage.
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Chuck Wagon Restaurant
1102 W Park Av, Weatherford. 817-613-1303. Mon-Sat 5:30am-10:30pm, Sun 5:30am-10pm. All major credit cards accepted.
Chuck Wagon Restaurant:
Stuffed jalapeños................................. $4.99
Biscuits and gravy................................ $2.99
Cheeseburger....................................... $6.49
Beef-fajita salad................................... $7.49
Chicken-fried steak.............................. $8.99
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
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Giddy Up
Hearty comfort food is still the standard at the old standby, the Chuck Wagon.
By PETER GORMAN
I wouldn’t drive 32 miles one way from Fort Worth just for the pleasure of dining at the Chuck Wagon Restaurant. But if you happen to be in Weatherford when you get hungry, heading for the long-time mom-and-pop eatery isn’t a bad idea — especially for a burger that’s one of the best in the 817. Some other dishes are wonderful, some are canned-or-frozen mediocre. In other words, it’s a good diner.
If you’re looking for a really big bite, even better, because the plates at the Chuck Wagon are huge. The cheeseburger, for instance, is a legitimate half-pound of savory ground sirloin topped generously with cheddar and served with all the fixin’s and an impossibly large side of fries.
The thick-crusted and deep-fried stuffed jalapeños tasted like something you could get anyplace else but were bigger than average and came six per order rather than the standard four or five. Served with a choice of dressings, they could have been a meal on their own.
The biscuits and gravy came with so much gravy, I had to ask for two extra biscuits — nicely done and flaky — to sop up the extra thick, peppery stuff, and the waitress gave ’em to me free of charge.
The star of the beef-fajita salad was slightly underseasoned but perfectly cooked, arriving moist and tender and served over a bed of chopped iceberg and romaine, with cherry tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, and sweet onions. The side of ranch dressing tasted pretty good for store-bought.
Standard but also perfectly cooked, the chicken-fried steak was oversized but not overly battered, allowing the steak’s flavor to keep center stage. Served with canned green beans and a baked potato, the dish also came with a buffet salad bar that included an excellent coleslaw and mustard-rich potato salad.
The décor was nearly as comfortable as the food: two large rooms (one smoking, one non), both with green booths lining one wall and tables in the middle dressed in green oilcloth. The rooms were separated by a wide hallway that was a makeshift waiting area, filled with American and cowboy kitsch for sale. The place was spotless, the service was effective, and the several tables of diners all looked happy — just as you’d expect from a stalwart mom-and-pop that’s been in business for almost 20 years.
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