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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
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My Heart’s Devotion
Mofongo, 2113 Harwood in Bedford, has been open about as long as Beto’s but hasn’t had even one grand-opening party. It’s harder to find, tucked behind the Kroger at Harwood and Central (in the old Coney Island Café location, if that helps). There the differences end: Mofongo also has delicious island cuisine, in this case Puerto Rican, and a charming host, in this case Luis, showing off the cafeteria-style dishes: fried pork with onions, sautéed steak, and various stews (with rice, beans, and salad, $6.95-$7.25). The customary side is yuca, a root vegetable served stewed or fritas, like french fries but with flavor.
Chow, Baby began with the eponymous mofongo ($2.95), a garlicky mound of ground-together plantains and salted pork, and ended with arroz dulce ($1.50), a sweet rice dessert with all the flavors of the island sun: coconut, honey, cinnamon, anise. In between, the fried pork, though dry, had a great flavor; the beef stew was as tender as could be. The dishes are authentically prepared, not dumbed down for non-island palates — according to Luis, at least; Chow, Baby has never been to Puerto Rico. Yet. It’ll probably land there one day while trying to get to Blue Mound on somebody else’s directions.
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